From Tennessee to Tuscany

All that marble….

Posted on November 10, 2011 by Melonie

The rain kept us from the marble mountains this fall but we have been through the Carrara and love the drive. Over 300 quarries that date back to Roman times and mostly famous for the fact that Michelangelo used this marble for David and other famous works. There are many shops/workshops along the way to buy some precious gifts, trinkets or larger items. The white white white marble is an amazing site and sunglasses are required. Head towards Viareggio from Pisa or Lucca and follow the drive up the coast then follow the signs towards the Cave di Marmo. You can tour the interior caves via Jeeps and vans and you will see a the signs marking those companies. There is even a Marble Museum (of course) in Carrara explaining the techniques and crafting of marble, named Museo Civico del Marmo. It is worth stopping at the town’s Duomo and searching for Michelangelo’s home. It is marked by a plaque and picture of his carving tools.

A visit to Florence brings all the above information together. You see the lovely marble on the Cathedral-(The Santa Maria del Fiore), the statue’s in Plazzo Vecchio and the Piazza della Signoria, and of course the David.

Looking at the Cathedral, also called the Duomo, fine marble details are almost overwhelmiing. You have to stop and take a moment to take it all it…

The Cathedral marble facade…

Details around a door…

The colors around the detailed Saints…

Marble in Piazza della Signoria…like Michelangelo, Giambologna carved the Sabine Women from a flawed peice of marble.

A copy of David in same Piazza….Michelangelo had saved the marble that was used for David for a few years. That same peice had been turned down by many others, including Da Vinci.

Detailed marble family crests line the Duomo serving as crown molding like decor.

Another sunny day at the Duomo…

Marble Mountains in Carrara…

Posted in antiques, Florence, History, Italy, Lucca, Things to do, Tuscany | Leave a comment

Plant me a garden…

Posted on November 9, 2011 by Melonie

One day I told my hubby I wanted a garden, knowing I kill almost whatever is planted this translated to…”You plant a garden”. Well, he happens to be fairly good at planting and keeping things pretty if he has time to tend to it. We have produced some lovely landscaping and even a few herbs and tomatoes.

In 1545 Eleonora di Toledo, the Spanish wife of Cosimo I thought her health would improve if she moved to a more rural part of Florence. “Oltrarno” means “across the Arno” and historically had been where the lower class citizens lived. A lovely area filled with merchants and craftsman,Cosimo built the Palazzo Pitti which became the new home for the Medici family. He also planted her a garden…The Boboli Gardens surround the palace and boy what a garden!! It is now Florence’s largest public garden although you must pay admission to enter. I recommend the combo ticket and enjoy the many museums now in the Palace as well. There is also a nice little place to sit, grab a coffee or snack inside the courtyard too.

In the entrance courtyard, you are greeted with a lovely grotto, gift shop, 3 museums, and plenty of fresh air and sunshine. The lovely Grotto includes works by Michelangelo and de Rossi, beautiful iron work and of course some paintings on the walls! Walking straight ahead they will take your ticket and you will begin the climb up to the garden areas.

The Gardens include famous sculptures such as “Neptune” up the hill in the middle of the pond. This dates back to 1588. The mazes of cypress and ilex create hours of exploring. Most people (including myself) rarely make it to the far right of the garden which includes the fountain called Little Island. Up Up Up the steps from the amphitheatre is Forte di Belvedere which has rose gardens, lovely views of Florence and currently holds more of the Medici china.

There are so many paths to explore, so many statues to admire…it is a great moment to break away and breath a bit after all the museaums in Florence. You are even allowed to take a picnic! I encourage you to explore at many different time s of the year!

The entrance to to Palace-just cross the Arno via Ponte Vecchio and keep walking a bit.

The amphitheatre which housed the first Opera’s in Florence.

Climbing higher and higher toward the rose garden-looking back on Neptune…

Great view of Florence from the top!

Neptune spears his fish-but all we saw were frogs!

Another nice view from high above the pond.

Made it to the top-entering the rose garden …

So many trails to follow….where does this one lead?

Posted in Florence, History, Italy, Things to do, Tuscany | Leave a comment

Casa al Chianti

Posted on November 6, 2011 by Melonie

After a 12 hour flight-my friend and I were crazy enough to grab the Blue city bus at Florence airport (leaving our rental car right in the airport!) to tour Florence. After we had our “gelato” pick me up at the end of the day-we headed South to the Chianti area in search of our B & B for the night-“Casa al Chianti” in Dudda. The tiny hamlet of Dudda is 6km from Greve in Chianti and promised a clean economical room, fresh dinner and breakfast. After spotting a wild boar on the side of the road and deciding against a night walk (ha) we found the sweet curve in the road named Dudda.

The only store/trattoria/grocery in town-we entered into the store and spotted fresh Chianti and baked goods, sliced meats, cheeses and chestnut desserts…we were starving by the way…Francesca checked us into our room and we headed straight to dinner, located below the store area.

The menu was posted on the wall and I recognized mushroom sauce pasta and wild boar pasta…JACKPOT! Just what we were dreaming of eating the first night. We started with amazing fresh bruschetta and olive oil, then our main dishes (which we shared and couldn’t decide which one was the best), followed by espresso and chestnut cake dusted with sugar.

The local wine was also amazing…after we slugged our way up the steps to our room, we tried to sleep which should have been easy after only 3 hrs on the plane the day prior…

We also enjoyed a simple but perfect breakfast the next morning before we headed out to the Chianti region. Breakfast consisted of meats, cheeses, fresh bread and jam and of course…coffee!

I recommend this cute little place as it was close to Greve in Chianti-and with all the above mentioned-our total tab was 80 euro’s (dinner, B & B, breakfast, wine). On our way back to Greve we had several wineries to stop at as well and amazing views. All in all I thought it was super first night!!

Slow down or you might miss it!!

The little church and square of Dudda, Chianti.

Chianti and grocery inside the store area.

The menu!

Kind of dark-but this was the dining area…lovely and eclectic like most good Italian place to eat! Nice view out the back, huge fireplace, great service.

Chestnut cake dessert-we ate too fast to take a pic of dinner!

Breakfast was ready when we arrived downstairs.

Goodbye Dudda…off to find some wineries and oil!

View from our room where the owners make there own oil and wine.

Posted in Chianti, Florence, Hotels, Italy, Things to do, Wine | Leave a comment

6 hours to take-off…

Posted on October 18, 2011 by Melonie

When packing for Italy I have learned one thing…they have stores there. Medicine, my Keens, a toothbrush…everything else I can get if needed.

I NEVER check baggage…what a JOY to waltz right by those poor people waiting in customs and bag check…silly little people, don’t they know how much lovely coffee they are missing while waiting in line?

Carry on baggage can fit all you need! We have actually gone for 3 weeks with just a carry on. They have washers in town and you can pick up sweet sundresses in summer at market for 9 bucks!

I love the old trick of packing stuff you were going to sale at a yard sale or give away anyway, then leave it there and pack your bought “treasures” in its place!

You are also allowed one “personal” item-mine is always an enormous tote bag that I slip under the seat in front of me-filled with gifts for my neighbors, snacks, medicines and make-up. I stuff whatever small purse I am going to use inside the big tote.

Purses-really ladies? There is no need to slug around a big ole lovely expensive handbag-get a small travel bag-I have a nice light cotton organic bag I picked up at the Outdoor Store that fits my camera, blackberry,lip gloss, il passaporto (passport) and my euros!

Take a water bottle-the water is great in Italy and you can find fresh fountains everywhere-even on the side of the road. There is usually a long line of locals filling their containers with the spring water.

Take a copy of your passport and drivers license to keep in your room with your luggage just in case you lose the real one. But ALWAYS carry the original. You can not even get online at an Internet cafe without your passport! I also put a copy of my next of kin info in my purse and luggage as well-in case a speeding Italian driver runs me off the Amalfi Cliffs….

Get a few euro’s before you leave..your bank can get good rates at a low fee (I got 1000 usd transferred for 7 bucks). You will need this when you arrive at your connecting airports, to get that first pastry and coffee as soon as you land, etc. I do recommend you only exchange money at a BANK. The hours are tricky-morning then a few extra in the afternoon but the exchange is TEN times better. NEVER exchange at the airport or one of those “Exchange Money Here” booths…ever.

If you are smart and have planned your trip around market or a festival you will need cash-get used to it. We in the States are bad about using a debit for everything. Although credit cards are used in most large towns , never assume! Plus the best food and best buys are at the side stalls and they need cash!

One thing about security-lay off the “bling bling” , keep jewelry to a minimum, belt buckles, etc. have your lotions, potions, liquids in a baggie and you should have a quick entry to your flight terminal.

On your long flight don’t get caught up watching all the movies-SLEEP and you will have a great first day…

A few items on your return…Don’t mention to the passport check point guy how much fun you had at that “Agritourismo” (working farm) or all the samples of the local food you’ve brought home…this will delay you for sure…

Don’t sleep on the way home and your jetlag will be minimal.

now…I have to go pack!!!!

Sample of our two huge tote bags stuffed under the seat-this is our “personal” item! ha Our carry on’s are in the storage bins overhead. The international leg of your flight have HUGE storage bins.

Posted in Italy, Lucca, Rules and Regs, Things to do, Travel Tips, Tuscany | Leave a comment

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire….

Posted on October 13, 2011 by Melonie

Well it’s chestnut time in Tuscany. Called “castagne” in Italian and used for various foods like pancakes, honey, polenta, pasta, and a famous dessert called “castagnaccio”.

A few years ago the kid and I gathered these heroic nuts and learned all about how the chestnuts are slow roasted in a metata, then taken to the mill to be turned into flour. See below for more information and pictures on this amazing tradition. This flour is used for breads, cakes, desserts, etc. The Tuscans survived on this rustic flour hundreds of years ago when the winters were rough and long and cold. Today-the small medieval hilltop towns in our area still practice the method of gathering, peeling, smoking, milling….The smoking huts remind me of my grandfather smoking tobacco years ago on the farm in Tennessee-the actual size of the fire was small and took patience and talent to know just the right size it should be to slowly smoke.

As we walked the trails we hoped we wouldn’t come across another popular food this time of year who enjoy the chestnut…the wild boar “cinghiale”. You can find sauces, soups and more made from this pre-historic looking animal over Tuscany in the Fall and Winter.

October is the month for Festivals celebrating these nuts. I will be attending one next week with my friend/guide Heather from Sapori-e-Saperi. I always look forward to spending time with her and learning about how the Italians use what God gave them. The local villagers are saying the harvest was not very good this year so many huts will no even be lighting up the fires. I hope to taste some interesting foods this time and bring home a recipe to try out.

The only experience most of us here in the States have of chestnuts is eating them during the holidays-marking an “x” on them so they do not explode in the oven or in the fireplace. I read recently that a “t” (cross shape ) should be used rather than an “x” -I’m still researching the Christian significance to that advice but it sounds good to me!

Harvest time in Tuscany is filled with celebrations of all kinds-grape, olives, mushrooms and …chestnuts! I love they way they make up any reason to celebrate!

Bringing bags of chestnuts to the drying hut.

Loading the bags into the top level of the drying hut.

Using the peelings from last years nuts to use to stoke the fire -Italians are the ultimate recycling community!

Turning the chestnuts with a large paddle every few days…now that is a lot of nuts!

The Lower level of the hut where he tends to the fire. A very nice place-lovely in the middle of the woods. I would like to eat a nice lunch there…

A cat was making himself at home in the warm hut-if you look closely you can see how tiny the actual fire is…

Using hot tiles and tree leaves-these women were making :necci”-chestnut pancakes.

Here is one that a wild boar or no one else found…

Posted in Florence, Food, History, Italy, Lucca, Things to do, Tuscany | Leave a comment

da Vinci …da Amazing…

Posted on September 10, 2011 by Melonie

“Museo Leonardiano”-Plazza

In the sweet town of Vinci, not far from Prato (home to the Virgin’s Girdle in the Duomo) is the amazing museum of Leonardo da Vinci. His birthplace offers just a small square with a magnificent horse statue, a few nice coffee bars and one really nice place to eat with super views called Il Ristoro del Museo.

You can also visit his birthplace, Casa di Leonardo which contains a few of his drawings…

But the Museo is not to be missed. I had noooooo idea all the man invented or at least started….You can get a guide in many languages and it is self guided in a lovely huge medieval castle like structure-named the Castello dei Conti Guidi (circa 1100). The 3 level museum contains remade models of his drawings, actual machines and some instruments.

Some really interesting items was the parachute, bicycle, crane, the loom, the spring (like the tiny spring in your clock or watch that makes the hands turn)!! Some items were wayyy over my head…my husband and kids were amazing by different items, so we were all entertained.

The first “car like” structure was my favorite…and the little gift shop was a favorite of the girls. Take a moment to visit -I promise you will learn something. For about 6 bucks you will have a nice tour.

I have always been amazed by his story-The illegitimate son of a 25-year-old notary and a peasant girl, he was born on April 15, 1452. I love how his last name (like Collidi who penned Pinocchio) is just the town he was born in …if we still followed that tradition I would be named Melonie de Nashville. So stop by Vinci and enjoy the view…we drove following the detailed map of Northern Tuscany I bought on Amazon.com-it has come in very handy.

Lovely restored building and walkway.

The tower was still being restored the day we were there but is now open for touring on certain days.

Town square is marked by this lovely horse-across the street from his “tail” is great coffee!

It’s a bit of a walk up to the eatery and the shop but it’s worth it….

the view is worth every step…another lovely village, another amazing view!

Posted in History, Italy, Things to do, Tuscany | Leave a comment

Labor Day in USA…

Posted on September 5, 2011 by Melonie

Today is Labor Day in the States…

Founded by the Labor Union in New York in 1882. Labor Day, the first Monday in September, is a creation of the labor movement and is dedicated to the social and economic achievements of American workers. It constitutes a yearly national tribute to the contributions workers have made to the strength, prosperity, and well-being of our country….

While I try to not share my political views but I have to say I am surprised we are celebrating Labor Day this year…hardly anyone is working…we have had NO “strength or prosperity” as said above?? It made me wonder about National Holiday’s. Can you ever revoke a holiday once it doesn’t apply?

Italy has a billion holidays! Every Saint has a holiday. Most every town has a Saint that they celebrate at some time during the year. I learned at church yesterday that originally the word “saint” during Pauls’ times in Rome simply meant “believer”-that term changed dramatically over the years. Now Saint’s are very important in every village-some are even buried in the local churches and on display?

Some holidays are relatively new like the Italian Birthday which was celebrated while we there last Spring-the unification of the country only 150 yrs old was a surprise to me as the country itself is 1,000’s of years old.

Holloween was to have gotten it’s origin in Roman slave times and is now the HIGHEST money making holiday for decorations in the States…leave to the capitalist to turn it into money!

I love the holiday in Itlay that celebrates…women (not Mother’s Day…but woman’s day). Festa della Donna is celebrated on March 8th. Every woman around will be garnished with flowers…I love fresh flowers…I will plan a trip around this date!

The Fall Season is here and the holidays are around the corner… the economy has been 3 years rough and my prayer is that maybe those who normally spend during the holidays will spend “time” instead of money …time to reflect, time to make memories, time to be thankful….

Now…back to cleaning…after all it is Labor day…ha

Celebrating Italian Unification at a friend’s home with pasta the colors of the flag-green, red and white! Yum

Lots of Italian flags all over towns celebrating Italian Unification-kind of like our 4th of July!

I would like a bowl of these for “Woman’s Day”!

Posted in History, Italy, Tennessee, Tuscany | Leave a comment

No scrambled eggs…sorry.

Posted on September 4, 2011 by Melonie

SO MUCH FOOD…..at night……

One cultural difference in Italy is the food and when and what they eat.

I have several funny stories of us trying to find a “big breakfast” which does not exist except in hotels. The normal breakfast consisit of coffee and what I would call a dessert but others call a pastry.

Here in the US we eat scrambled eggs, bacon and pancakes…nope, nope and again, nope. We did find a box of “Bisquik” at a movie rental store at the check out lane-it was like a shelf for dumb tourists who can’t handle real Italian life…after 3 weeks of pastries we reached for the bisquik and ran!!! Hoping none of my neighbors saw me!

I have said on occasion that if the Italians ate some protein at breakfast they wouldn’t have to eat such a huge lunch which means they wouldn’t have to sleep (or siesta) for 3 hrs and could get off work much earlier than 7-8pm and wouldn’t have to eat such a late dinner then have to talke a walk at 10pm…BUT WAIT….that’s why I go to Italy!!!….to experience the SLOWer environment and learn how other countries live…it is hard not to compare but then again I live in a obese, over worked, overly medicated, over stressed country so forget the protein at breakfast…they are obviously smarter than us-oh…and they are healthy and thin too!

The antipasta tray aboves includes meats and cheeses and olives, etc…just a sample of ONE course of food in Italy. You see the kid’s “personal” size pizza-which we took half of it home and had the next day for lunch!

The amount of food and amount of courses is also something you have to get used to…first of all, you must learn to pace yourself…relax, lean your back in the chair, breath..and no one will get mad if you don’t order 5 courses! We normally have the antipasta, seconda and coffee. I am learning the best places to eat in my area and which ones to “fast” for all day so I don’t have to miss a course!

Timing…it takes us several days to get on Italian eating schedule…we eat at 5pm here in the States…the good places do not OPEN till 7:30 or so but most don’t serve full dinner till 8 or 9pm. We have learned to look starved, wink, smile and order salad or pizza-which they will serve you happily early…or you can eat pizza or a panani at a local coffee bar (which seems to never close?) any time during the day.

I still haven’t mastered lunch…I am forever having the above mentioned because I can’t seem to stop “touristing” early enough for lunch before they close the restuarant for siesta…maybe next trip. It is sad and funny-all the people eating past 12:30 are poor tourists eating pizza and sandwiches in the piazza’s wondering what the heck they are going to do for the next 3 hrs while the shop owners sleep!

Eggs are sold in half dozen carton (Italians use them mostly for bakings)-so if you must have an egg grab them and scramble away…ps…the pancake mix is at Blockbuster in Lucca outside the walls-but tell anyone I told you….

Pizza…again for lunch….kids never seems to mind..these squares were found in San Gimignano.

I tried to snap this seconda course but she was eating faster than I could click…punded chicken topped with ham and cheese…

Yet another course…roasted veggies….

Wild boar (on the wooded cutting board) has become a favorite of ours now, the bruschetta this particular day at a local beekeeper’s place was amazing!

This looks like dessert to me…but we’ll eat it for breakfast if we HAVE tooooooo……

Posted in Florence, Food, Italy, Things to do, Tuscany | Leave a comment

Florence and kids??-SURE!!

Posted on August 21, 2011 by Melonie

Florence-the town of the art, statues, frescoes, history….and you want to take a child? YES! Yes you can!

A little homework will make your trip with a child more enjoyable. First explain there is no “technology” today-they will actually learn to read a town map to the various sites (an experience for the GPS children of today). They will be walking…and walking…so pick out some great new walking shoes-we love our Keen brand shoes that take the cobble stone roads well! Grab a book-My child LOVES her “Young Traveller’s Guide to Florence” (Giunti). It explains in kid terms what they are looking at and some fun historical facts…to be honest…it’s one of my favorites too!!

Then of course…the camera-Below are some amazing pictures my kid took of some of the things she learned from her book. She actually goes into Florence every trip looking for something new that she read about!

When you tell a child that Ponte Vecchio used to have stinky meat cutters and fish mongers and the Prince would only walk above the bridge in a special tunnel ..that is tons more interesting than…”Hey let’s got to Ponte Vecchio so Mommy can look at pretty jewelry”.

Tell them to look for the secret owl at the bargello, the iron rings outside the Palazzo Vecchio or the gothic gutters around the Duomo….so many secrets and fun things to keep them entertained.

Also-looking online or at books of the statues and their fun stories makes the entire “naked” issue seem to disappear…kind of…ha…I will say, my kid was worried her first trip that everyone in Italy must run around with little to no clothes because that what all the statues looked like!

Gelato…nowhere can you find gelato like Florence. Like so many of the buildings, the Gelateria’s offer what look like true artistic masterpeices! Take a moment to sit with your ice cream in a piazza or take a stroll in Boboli Gardens and ask your kid what they think about…statues, the italian fashion, Florence pizza verses our pizza, etc.

Florence and all of Italy can be a special trip with children but you just have to take a little time to do some homework..I have found it has enhances MY own trip tenfold!

Door of Miracles tells 8 Bible stories!

Did you know they dropped hot oil and bombs from secret windows?

Atop the tower at the cathedral

Blood jetting out the neck of Medusa-cool!

Now this view was worth the climb! Atop the tower at cathedral.

A favorite street performer.

Real gold in the ceiling….

So much pizza…so little time

Map reading!!

Posted in Chianti, Florence, Food, History, Italy, Things to do, Tuscany | Leave a comment

The sound of the printer…

Posted on August 13, 2011 by Melonie

I love the sound of the printer…when it is printing my tickets to Tuscany!!! It is always such a relief -why? Because I am always on a budget and I spend hours searching for the best flight with the cheapest rate , yet no airport changes in NY or London, no long layover..yet enough to get through a large terminal like Munich or Atlanta…etc etc.

I have people ask me airline rates all the time-they are really all over the place depending on when you go. We have no major “hub” here so I have to fly from Knoxville or Chattanooga to a larger airport to get me overseas. The rates have ranged from $500 (less than going to Jackson Hole WY) to $1,000 in peak summer months. I usually stick with www.cheapoair.com or www.cheaptickets.com I find the flight I like then go back and forth from the discount provider to the actual airline…waiting for the price to drop to match.

It worked for me the last two times! I just booked with our favorite-Lufthansa. My Dad will not be happy that I did not chose an American owned company but sorry-this airline rocks! The planes are clean, roomy, amazing good food for airline food, sometimes complimentary wine or champagne, happy staff and organized loading. They are soooo amazing with kids too. My kid has rec’d numerous fun items to keep her busy, candy, even a stuffed animal one time when her hand got caught in the seatbelt buckle (ouch)..ok…so that’s my commercial for the day. Maybe someone will read this and give me more frequent flyer miles! ha

Also-I recommend flying into Munich at least once so you can fly over the Alps-the puddle jumper to Pisa/Florence is quick so it is low! You can almost touch the mountains-amazingly beautiful.

So now we wait…..

Not too shabby!!! Makes the trip go faster!