About an hour train ride from Rome is the ancient walled city of Viterbo.
On the way we saw the three volcanic crater lakes and the main crops of hazel nuts and olive trees growing. The city is known today for it’s many thermal spas. Tourists come to take in the healing waters that have been in the area since the Etruscan and Roman times. There are even some ancient Roman baths still intact!
When we arrived, we entered the medieval gate entrance Porta Romano (points towards Rome). The town dated back to the 600’s but became a city in 1000BC! Every year on September 3rd they have a huge festival called “Macchiana di Santa Rosa”, honoring the Patron Saint Rose. Legend has it she was a 19yr old girl who wanted to spread the gospel and was thrown out of town, when she died her bones didn’t disintegrate-the people were amazed and she was sainted. We walked the mile walk that every year 100 strong hero’s from the town walk carring a huge 70-80 foot tower in honor of Santa Rosa.
The walk began at the gate near the Gothic style church Santo Sisto, down the street to Piazza del Piebiscito (the people’s piazza) where the main clock tower and government buildings are housed, then up to the 12c Romanesque style church of Santa Maria Nouova. This walk is up and down hills and the men stop several times for breaks. The festival usually brings about 50,000 visitors in addition to the 60,000 in population to Viterbo’s normally quiet town. Parades, food, medieval costumed events happen all weekend but the “walk” is at 9pm as the sun is set adding even more difficulty to the affair.
The most popular attraction of Viterbo is the “Palazzo Lorenzo”. A large area that has the amazing “Palace of the Popes”. This building is where the Popes would come to take retreat from busy Rome. It was also where the new Pope was selected up until the late 1300’s. Legend says the church had a side “loggia” hall where they would lock the doors until a decision was made, dropping food into the top of the Castle! The columns for the building came directly from Rome. The St Lawrence Cathedral and Bell Tower are also beautiful. I loved the 3 doors depicting several stories of the Bible and History. I even found a little tiny fresco in the corner that has been recently discovered. This church was actually built atop old Lombard ruins. The piazza housed a nice drinking fountain, a school for priest’s and views to die for! As you walk the city of Viterbo you will see a Lion , the town’s symbol for courage against the tough Papal historic wars fought throughout the town.
I really loved Viterbo-we ate lunch at a place I may never find again and the food was insane, the city was clean and well kept and the amount of history here was overwhelming.
My favorite part was the small plaque erected by the fountain overlooking the valley (outside the People’s Piazza) that stated the city was freed from Papal rule…for a whopping 30 days…oh well…may we all learn to enjoy our small victories.
The Gate entrance into the walled town of Viterbo.
The main bell tower, notice the lion on the corner of the building.
The last turn of the mile walk towards the Santa Maria Church-this picture points you to the church.
Every year a new tower is designed and built for the men to carry-this statue represents one from years ago….
Plazzo Lorenzo with the cathedral and the palace in the foreground.
The roman columns of the Palace for the Pope’s were stunning.
The cathedral.
Interior of Cathedral.
All three doors told a story.
I saw this tiny frescoe in the corner of the church…barely lit with a small bulb…a treasure as I didn’t see anyone else notice it-it was far back in a dusty spot so I reached in and snapped a picture.
The cathedral bell tower.
20 days of freedom…
